UBUD, BALI: ULTIMATE TRAVEL GUIDE

Ubud is one of the most special places on Bali. It’s beloved by tourists, and for good reason. The bustling town sits in the middle of the island surrounded by endless green rice fields, swaying palms and picturesque jungle. The mix of natural landscape, warm Hindu culture and booming tourist scene make it a very easy place to visit and stay awhile. Below is my complete travel guide to Ubud including the best places to visit, waterfalls, temples, day trips, hotels, Airbnbs, restaurants, gelato, drivers + guides and travel tips to help plan your next trip.

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These massive shrines cut into the rocks date back to the 11th century.

MY TWO CENTS ON BALI

I have complicated feelings when it comes to Ubud. Actually, Bali in general. When I first started visiting 10 years ago, the island was certainly a tourist destination, but nothing like what it has turned into today. What was once a low-key spot frequented by backpackers for its lush landscapes, friendly locals and booming surf has transformed into a mass tourist destination. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing. Just different.

The popularity of the island with expats, digital nomads and all-types of tourists has given birth to loads of amazing restaurants, health cafes, gyms and a booming tourism business. At the same time, the traffic now is absolutely wild. And waterfalls, temples and viewpoints have become Disney-like tourist attractions where tourists (including myself) must line up just to snap a photo, instead of enjoying places and organically shooting while exploring.

Even with all the changes Bali has gone through, the island is still very special to me. Especially Ubud. I have so many special memories here. Like I said, it’s complicated.

There are loads of cafe and day club options overlooking Ubud’s picturesque rice terraces along Tegalalang Road. Tis Cafe is one of the prettiest.

UBUD TIPS

• CURRENCY – The official currency of Bali is the Indonesian Rupiah. While a lot of businesses do take card, you’ll need cash for the markets, drivers and smaller purchases that don’t meet the minimum credit card spend. There are money changers all around Ubud. Make sure to bring larger bills that are not ripped, and no markings.
• MOSQUITOES – Prepare yourself for mosquito encounters in Ubud. I suggest packing repellant, but more importantly something to relieve the itch from bites This Thai Green Herbal Balm is a great option.
• GRAB APP – Download the Grab app before your trip to Bali. It’s their version of Uber and Door Dash all rolled into one. I didn’t use it much for taxis, but I used it quite a bit for food delivery. Especailly at the end of long days when I didn’t want to walk into town or battle the traffic for dinner. Almost all restaurants are on Grab – very convenient!

Tegalalang Road is lined with handicraft and pottery shops – I wanted to buy everything!

HOW MANY DAYS IN UBUD

FIVE DAYS. Ubud itself can be experienced in a couple of days, but there’s loads to see right outside of town that requires a longer stay. Five days will give you a good taste of Ubud, and the time to embark on a handful of day trips to the surrounding rice fields, waterfalls, temples and more. I’ve put together a complete five-day itinerary at the end of this post.

Pura Gunung Lebah.

WHEN TO VISIT UBUD

• HIGH SEASON – July through September are the busiest months of the year. This is both high season and dry season – your best chance to avoid the rainy weather. The island is most crowded this time of the year with hotel pricing at its peak.
• SHOULDER SEASON – October, November, April, May and June are the island’s shoulder months. Weather can be hit and miss – visitors usually get a mix of both sunshine and storms. Note that May is typically the hottest month in Bali.
• LOW SEASON – December through March are the wettest months of the year, and coincide with the island’s low season. There will certainly be tourists on Bali, but the crowds are less intense this time of the year. Also, there are usually more hotel options to choose from in low season.

Morning serenity over the jungle.

THINGS TO DO IN UBUD

BANJAR MANCINGAN RICE TERRACES

Banjar Mancingan is an off-the-beaten path stretch of rice terraces about 30 minutes driving from Ubud. The narrow road that runs through the fields is very narrow, and lined with palm trees. Very picturesque. Hiking through the landscape can take anywhere from 20 minutes to three hours, depending on how much you want to see.

CAMPUHAN RIDGE

This serene trail is located on the edge of Ubud’s town centre. It can be reached on foot, and the meandering hike itself takes approximately 30 minutes, depending how often you stop. The ridge offers up lush valley views of the rice fields, forest and palms. You’ll pass by the beautiful Pura Gunung Lebah at the start of the trek, if you start at the south end of the trail. This is a popular walk to do a sunrise or sunset.

GOA GAJAH

A mysterious historical Hindu relic that dates back to the 9th century sits carved into the cliffside rocks of Bedulu village. Goa Gajah is small – the cave and its surroundings don’t take more than an hour to visit.

PURA GUNUNG KAWI SEBATU

Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a beautiful water temple located near the Tegalalang rice terraces. The stone complex is utterly serene. Visitors can bathe in the temple’s natural spring water – less crowded here than Tirta Empul.

PURA GUNUNG KAWI TAMPAKSIRING

This sprawling 11th century temple complex sits at the base of a valley where 10 massive shrines are carved into the cliff face. It’s a steep descent down into the valley via a stone staircase that cuts through the prettiest lush green rice terraces.

PURA TIRTA EMPUL

A lovely 10th century water temple in the village of Tampaksiring. Visitors are invited to bathe in the holy water as part of a purification ritual. The temple is amazing, but this place is crawling with tourists – very crowded.

SACRED MONKEY TEMPLE

There are a handful of monkey temples and monkeys forests on Bali, but the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud’s town center is the most iconic. More than 1,200 long-tailed macaques inhabit a swath of jungle on the edge of town where lush moss and gnarly vines wrap around 14th century temple remains. The forest is actually quite pretty, and if you arrive early enough when no one is around, it feels like a scene from Tomb Raider. A word of warning, the macaques can be aggressive, especially if they think you have food.

SANGEH MONKEY FOREST

This is another monkey forest option located just outside of Ubud, enroute to the waterfalls up north. Sangeh is a less crowded option, but without the temple ruins in Ubud, not quite as pretty. Still, a great place to stop on day trip up north.

TAMAN DEDARI

This scenic sculpture park is actually located at the Taman Dedari restaurant. Towering angel statues sit in a tropical garden overlooking the Ayung Valley. It’s prettiest to visit at sunset.

TEGALALANG RICE TERRACES

There are loads of rice fields all over Bali, but the most famous are the terraced hills of Tegalalang. The dazzling UNESCO World Heritage Site has all the feels of a Balinese postcard – layers of vibrant green curve through a spectacular valley dotted with swaying palms and forest trees. Visitors can enjoy the view from above, and then actually hike down into the little valley to experience the terraces up close. Best to arrive first thing in the morning, and then enjoy coffee with a view at one of the little cafes overlooking the terraces.

UBUD MARKET

Popular tourist market located in the town center that sells everything from bamboo bags to sarongs.

UBUD TOWN

Carve out time in your itinerary to spend a morning or afternoon exploring Ubud’s town center on foot. The streets are lined with loads of cute boutiques, cafes, gelato shops, restaurants, massage spots and more.

UBUD WATER PALACE

Pura Taman Saraswati, also known as the Ubud Water Palace, is a Hindu temple located in Ubud’s town centre. A small pathway cuts through a pond that is completely covered in green lotus and pink blooming flowers.

Leke Leke Falls is the prettiest waterfall on the island. All the Ferngully vibes!

UBUD DAY TRIPS

BANYUMALA TWIN FALLS

It’s a quick 20-minute trek through the dense jungle to reach Banyumala Twin Falls. The water cascading over the ivy covered rocks is pretty spectacular, and the pools are deep enough to swim in. As with most waterfalls on Bali, best to arrive first thing in the morning to have the place to yourself.

FIJI WATERFALLS LUMUKIH

Fiji Falls is a doozy to reach. It’s pretty much the same journey as Sekumpul Falls. The two waterfalls sit at opposite ends of a shared forest valley. It’s a windy two-hour drive from Ubud to reach the trailhead, and then another hour of steep hiking to reach the waterfall. It’s a lot of work to get to the base of the falls, but well worth it.

GIT GIT FALLS

Of all the waterfalls in Bali, Git Git requires the least amount of effort. The walk from the car park is short and sweet – no crazy climbs to reach viewpoints. The waterfall is lovely, but because it’s so easy to access, a visit to Git Git is relatively quick. Best to pair with another adventure in the region.

HANDARA GATE

What used to be a cool little stop for a fun photo has turned into a complete tourist attraction. Now there is a ticket kiosk where you pay an admission fee to sit and wait for your number to be called. Once your number is called, you’ll have a few minutes at the gate to pose for photos. The funny thing is, the gate is actually a just a driveway to Handara Golf & Resort.

JATILUWIH RICE TERRACES

These sprawling rice fields are located in West Bali, near Jatiluwih Village. There are a range of trails through the paddies available to trek that can take anywhere from 20 minutes to several hours. The green landscapes are absolutely stunning, and feel much more off-the-beaten-path compared to Tegalalang.

LEKE LEKE FALLS

Leke Leke Falls is the prettiest waterfall on Bali. A 20-minute hike through jungle leads you to a cascading oasis that is perfectly framed by lush green ferns, ivy and jungle vines. It’s completely serene to experience the falls alone, so best to arrive at 7 AM when they open.

PURA ULUN DANU BERATAN TEMPLE

Iconic temple that sits on Lake Beratan, in the Bedugul region of the island. The calm surrounding lake evokes the most serene sense of calm if you visit early in the morning.

SEKUMPUL FALLS

Sekumpul is the most epic waterfall on the island, and one of the hardest to reach. It’s a gnarly road of twists and turns through north Bali to get to Sekumpul Village – a two-hour drive from Ubud. And from the village it’s another one-hour trek down a steep trail to reach the base of the falls. The waterfall is massive, and the views on the hike are pretty spectacular.

TEGENUNGAN WATERFALL

This gushing waterfall is one of the easiest to access from Ubud – located just 30 minutes away. It isn’t the prettiest waterfall on the island, but quick to visit if you’re tight on time and want to get in a waterfall fix. This place is a popular stop for tourists – visit early.

TUKAD CEPUNG WATERFALL

Tukad Cepung sits tucked away in the rocks, and if you visit when the light is right (usually in the morning), the prettiest set of rays will hit the waterfall. What was once a hidden gem is now a very popular tourist spot. It wont be difficult to find, just follow the line of people.

The spectacular angel sculpture garden at Taman Dedari.

UBUD HOTELS

ALAYA RESORT

Alaya Resort is a solid mid-range option located on the backside of Ubud’s town center. It doesn’t have the crazy valley views that the five-star resorts offer, but puts up a big win when it comes to value and convenience. The rooms here at modern, clean and spacious. And the location in town is fabulous. Everything is walkable – the Monkey Forest, shops, restaurants and cafes.

AMORGOS II VILLA

Private villa stays are quite popular on Bali, and Amorgos II Villa is a lovely option while in Ubud. The space has been designed with all whites and neutrals – very boho. And the floor to ceiling windows open up to a private pluge pool with views of the surrounding rice fields and jungle.

BISMA EIGHT

This is a wonderful mid-range option located within walking distance of Ubud’s town centre. The 38 modern suites at Bisma Eight all feature separate sitting areas and bedrooms, more spacious than a standard hotel room.

BUAHAN, A BANYAN TREE ESCAPE

Buahan is a new property for the Banyan Tree brand (it opened in 2022). The location is a bit out of the way (Ubud is a 40-minute drive), but chances are you won’t want to leave once on-property. It’s a five-star Adults-Only resort with a no-walls and no-doors concept. The open air villas are absolutely stunning, and include a private pool, gazebo, living space and sweeping views. Home to one of the dreamiest pools on the island. One of the best hotels in Ubud.

CAPELLA UBUD

The luxury tented retreats at Capella Ubud offer up one of the most unique luxe stays on the island. The property’s vintage design was inspired by early 19th century European settlers, and you can feel a sense of historic flare in the 22 tents and lodge on property. Guests choose from four tent options including Keliki Valley, River, Rainforest and Terrace – all have both indoor and outdoor bathrooms, private dining areas and private pools. The rooms have bold muted colors, intricate wood carved wardrobes, brass colored tubs and a mind-boggling number of art and design pieces. This place is stunning.

FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN

A stay at the Four Seasons is always a win for me. It’s one of the most consistent luxury hotel brands, and the Sayan is no exception. The resort overlooks the gushing Ayung River – views of it from the pools, restaurant and some of the suites and villas. The retreats themselves are grand featuring high ceilings, spacious floor plans, rich teak wood and hand-loomed fabrics. There is a luxury spa on property, and food is exceptional (especially breakfast).

HANGING GARDENS

This is the OG when is comes to Insta famous hotels in Ubud. It may no longer be the crown jewel, but Hanging Gardens is still one of the top luxury stays on the island. The sparkling infinity pool perched over a jungle valley is truly iconic, and the world class spa is a must while at the property. The villas themselves might feel a bit dated compared to some of the newer hotels and Airbnb’s around town. But it’s a minor complaint in this picture-perfect Ferngully setting.

HOSHINOYA BALI

Hoshinoya Bali is the luxury brand’s first property outside of Japan. It sits in Tampaksiring, a short drive from Ubud, overlooking a stunning valley of jungle. The design of the resort incorporates both Balinese and Japanese elements. Particularly memorable are the clean lines of the air gazebos where guests can have breakfast or a multi-course dinner while perched over the trees.

KAMANDALU

For guests wanting the villa experience without breaking the bank, Kamandalu offers villa stays for reasonable prices.

MANDAPA, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE

One of the best five-star options in Ubud. Similar to the Four Seasons, Mandapa, A Ritz-Carlton Reserve sits in the Ayung River Valley surrounded by dense tropical forest and gushing sounds of water. The butler-serviced villas and suites are over-the-top luxurious designed with deep neutrals including beautiful wood paneling. Depending on room type, guests are also treated to private pools, rain showers, walk-in closets, private terraces and views of the jungle, rice paddies or the river.

STONE HOUSE

For the best boutique hotel option in Ubud, look no further than lovely little Stone House. An absolute oasis sits inside the walls of this dreamy property. There arec six rooms to choose from – my favorites are the Skyview Rooms (love the white minimalist luxe) and the Treehouse (an open air bamboo house overlooking the rice fields). It’s an intimate property, so the service is very personal, and it never feels crowded.

Breakfast in my open-air bamboo house at Stone House, the best boutique hotel option in Ubud.

My room overlooked the most picturesque view of the surrounding rice fields.

UBUD RESTAURANTS

DAILY BAGUETTE

Best to visit this French artisan bakery in the morning when everything is fresh including croissants, banana bread, bread loaves and cookies. Daily Baguette also has a full menu of coffee and tea.

HERB LIBRARY

Solid healthy dining spot that serves an array of dishes including smoothie bowls, salads, sandwiches, rice and noodle dishes and homemade soups.

HONEY AND SMOKE

Honey and Smoke is a modern Australian restaurant that sits in the heart of Ubud. Dishes are fresh and delicious. My favorites on the menu were the tempura zucchini flowers, grilled scallops and miso glazed grouper. Reservations recommended.

HUJAN LOCAL

This popular spot for dinner and drinks offers an expansive menu of local dishes, as well as cocktails. To be honest, I was a bit underwhelmed by the food, but I’m also not big on Indonesian cuisine. Drinks were fabulous.

L’OSTERIA PIZZA E CUCINA

Top notch Italian spot that serves up handmade pastas, homemade sauces and wood fired pizzas. L’Osteria Pizza e Cucina is one of my favorite dinner spots in Ubud. They have two other locations in Jimbaran and Canggu.

LOCAVORE TO GO

The casual off-shoot of popular fine dining hotspot Locavore is the cafe Locavore To Go. The menu is constantly changing, but it often features burgers, sandwiches, charcuterie platters, breakfast sandwiches and comfort dishes.

MONSIEUR SPOON

This popular bakery has locations in Ubud, Seminyak and Canguu. The Ubud location is a lovely little spot to hang while drinking coffee and feasting on the bakery’s array of fresh pasties, cakes and breads.

SINNAMON

Swing by this little shop for warm, fresh baked cinnamon rolls. My favorite snack in Ubud!

TIS CAFE

A cute cafe and day club built over the rice fields along Tegalalang Road. The location is spectacular offering guests sweeping views of the terraces from the infinity pools, sun beds and tables.

WATERCRESS UBUD

All around great restaurant for brunch, happy hour or a late night dinner. Breakfast options include a variety of omlettes, benedicts, smoothie bowls, chia pudding, toasts and bagels. Dinner offerings include roasted chicken, wagyu, curries, fresh seafood, ribs and more.

The fresh, handmade pasta from L’Osteria Pizza e Cucina was pretty damn delicious.

Passion fruit cocktail from Hujan Local, and fesh scallops from Honey & Smoke.

A warm, fresh cinnamon roll from Sinnamon. I stopped by every afternoon for my fix.

UBUD GELATO

GAYA GELATO

Little gelato shop with yummy flavor offerings that change daily including dragonfruit cinnamon, chocolate infused with orange, peanut butter, pistachio, salted caramel and coffee, to name a few.

GELATO OOPS

The OG of gelato shops in Ubud located across from the Ubud Market. Gelato Oops has grown into a full restaurant and massage center, but the little gelateria still faces the main road.

GELATO SECRETS

Probably the most popular gelato spot in Ubud with a handful of locations scattered throughout the town center. The gelato is flavorful and delicous – my favorite flavor is passion fruit.

Passion fruit gelato from Gelato Secrets.

GET AROUND UBUD

For the most part, Ubud Town is very walkable. Most restaurants, cafes, temples, the market, etc. can be reached on foot. Anything outside of the immediate town, you’ll need wheels to reach. Most backpackers opt to rent scooters or motorcycles, but the best option for exploring the surrounding region is to hire a driver. See my recommendations below.

The spectacular views at Sekumpul Falls.

Grabbed fresh Balinese pancake from a sweet lady selling fruit, just before the Sekumpul trailhead.

PRIVATE GUIDE / DRIVER

Private drivers can be hired for a flat daily fee that usually includes a private vehicle, petrol, parking fees and their services as your guide. Most people book for multiple days of the trip (airport transfers, hotel transfers, day trips, etc) because it’s more comfortable and convenient to have the same car and a trusted driver the entire time in Bali. Plus, it’s very affordable! Two of my favorite humans on the island are Made Dana (+62 813-3824-8445) and Made Budi (+62-818-0531-7679), and they are both private drivers and guides. I highly recommend either while on Bali. They can be booked via Instagram DM or WhattsApp.

My morning trek through the Tegalalang Rice Terraces.

Fresh coconut in the rice fields made for a refreshing break from trekking.

GET TO UBUD

There is one airport on Bali that serves as the gateway to the rest of the island. Ngurah Rai International Airport connects the island to international destinations including Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Sydney, Bangkok and more. Travel time from the airport to Ubud is approximately two hours, depending on traffic. Transportation can usually be arranged through hotels for a fee, but I always book Made Dana or Made Budi for all my airport transfers, hotel transfers, day trips, etc.

Made Dana and Made Budi are my two favorite humans on Bail, and they both happen to be private guides and drivers on the island. They know all the best places to visit – highly recommend both of them if you visit.

The afternoon traffic in Ubud’s town center is wild.

Bridge walks at Alas Harum.